Savoir-Faire

Enamel brings two new Coccinelles creations to life

Two new jewelry creations take the silhouette of the ladybug, a motif dear to the Maison. The softness of rose gold and the vivacity of enamel combine on a clip and a Between the Finger ring. They enrich the enchanting Van Cleef & Arpels universe, illustrating one of its emblematic sources of inspiration: the vitality of nature. 

 

These pieces highlight a métier d’art developed at the Maison’s Watchmaking Workshops in Geneva. This time-honored savoir-faire consists of applying enamel – a specific blending of silica powder and pigments – to a metal, glass or ceramic motif. The latter is then fired in a high-temperature oven. Featured on Van Cleef & Arpels creations since its founding in 1906, this art requires precision and meticulousness. The champlevé enamel technique is applied to the new Coccinelles pieces. It consists of carving hollows into gold, which are then filled with multiple layers of enamel. Each step is followed by firing. The motif is adorned with a deep, vibrant red, a shade that has been specifically composed for the clip and the ring. The enameling is particularly delicate due to the three-dimensional structure and testifies to the virtuosity of the Maison's craftsmen. 

The fruit of a collective work, the two new creations also embody the excellence of jewelry-making savoir-faire. The structure of the piece is formed in France, using the lost wax casting technique. Once enameled, the wings return to the jewelry workshops before assembly. Goldwork – guilloché on the clip and mirror-polished on the ring – breathes life into the ensemble, as well as the beauty of the gemstones. The onyx head contrasts harmoniously with the enamel body, and diamonds and rose gold elements reinforce the ladybug’s silhouette. Selected according to the strictest criteria (D to F for color, IF to VVS for clarity), the gems enhance the brilliance of the ensemble. 

    Coccinelles Between the Finger ring, 18K rose gold, rhodium plated 18K white gold, enamel, onyx, diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels.
    Coccinelles clip, 18K rose gold, rhodium plated 18K white gold, 18K guilloché rose gold, enamel, onyx, diamonds. Van Cleef & Arpels.

The ladybug embodies a value the Maison holds dear: luck.  It dates back to the 1930s as a source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels creations. Initially red, it was later seen in bolder shades, like blue and green. The motif adorned clips and rings before being associated with other of nature’s elements. It featured alongside butterflies, flowers, and turtles in the la boutique collection, launched in 1954. Today, the ladybug continues to enliven Van Cleef & Arpels’ poetic universe, as in the Lucky Spring jewelry creations.