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Cosmic Splendor: Jewelry from the Collections of Van Cleef & Arpels
American Museum of Natural History
The cosmos reveals its poetic character in the Maison’s new exhibition “Cosmic Splendor: Jewelry from the Collections of Van Cleef & Arpels". Renewing one of its historic sources of inspiration - patrimonial, contemporary and High Jewelry creations offer a striking vision of the universe, tinged with dreams.
Take me away
The wonders of the cosmos have inspired Van Cleef & Arpels since its foundation in 1906 on the Place Vendôme in Paris. This theme, an invitation to travel and dream, echoes throughout the history of the Maison and the 20th century, right up to the present day, adorning all types of jewelry with celestial motifs. In the 1950s, jewelry and timepieces emulate the movements of meteors thanks to asymmetrical gold threads fashioned into rays, unleashing a burst of light and motion.
Lucky stars
The zodiac is a set of 12 constellations that arc in a band across the sky. They are aligned with the path of the Sun, which slowly passes over each of them, one by one, over the course of a year. Zodiac symbols are sometimes worn like personal charms. In popular astrology, your zodiac “sign” is based on the constellation the Sun was facing when you were born.
Following the yellow gold medals launched in the 1950s, the Zodiaque creations of the 1970s diversified in terms of materials and functions. To match the Seventies silhouette, the Maison created colorful pendants on long necklaces, Zodiaque bracelets and impressive Zodiaque belt buckles. The intense colors of malachite, lapis lazuli, citrine or agate go hand-in-hand with the tones of this exuberant era.
Across the universe
The Sous les étoiles High Jewelry collection, launched in 2021, has drawn on scientific sources of inspiration. Designers, jewelers and expert gemologists immersed themselves in the contemplation of cosmic landscapes through the lens of astonishing astronomical photographs. These images have infused the creations of this collection witha a palette of nuanced, at times unexpected, colors. Inspired by astronomy, through figurative or stylized patterns, Van Cleef & Arpels creations depict stars, planets, the Milky Way or celestial movements.
Lunar wonders
While the Maison carefully selects the gems and ornamental stone sets on these creations, the gold craftmanship testifies to the innovative techniques led by the Maison. In the 1960s and 1970s, craters were forged out of textured metal surfaces. The 1969 pendant, for example, depicts the lunar surface to celebrate Man’s first step on the Moon.
Our star
In a galaxy filled with billions of stars, just one star—the Sun—keeps us warm and helps our planet bloom. The dazzling creations in this display celebrate the Sun, the celestial body that lights our days.
These radiant faces representing the Sun were fashioned from yellow gold paved with diamonds. Long, slender cabochons of citrine, a yellow variety of quartz, or green chalcedony suggest the Sun’s pulsing rays. Each ray is framed by twisted a gold thread, enhancing the whole design and echoing the gold center of these figurative pieces.
Van Cleef & Arpels perpetuates this celebration of the Sun in its contemporary creations with the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit watch. The diamond-paved Moon and stars poetically pursue the Sun, embellished with snow-set yellow sapphires. Featuring a 24-hour rotating disc, the dial revolves almost imperceptibly. Thanks to the depth effect of the Murano aventurine glass, this piece portrays the immensity of the cosmos and the magic of a starry night.
Beyond Earth
The visual language paying tribute to the cosmos, in watchmaking, has been present since the 1920s with moon-phase pocket watches. It has since been exalted through Poetic Astronomy, a collection of precious garde-temps gathering Poetic Complications watches and Extraordinary Objects, combining craftsmanship and watchmaking expertise. Capturing the infinity of the universe, Van Cleef & Arpels creates bejeweled animated planetariums, within a dial on a wristwatch or in an automaton.
Midnight Planétarium watch, 2012
Rose gold, blue agate, aventurine glass, sugilite, turquoise, serpentine, chromelanite, jasper
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Clip, 1954
Platinum, white gold, sapphires, rubies, diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
Burning bright
On a clear night, far from the electric lights of the city, stars shimmer like jewels in a velvet sky. Although their light seems eternal, stars are born, burn for millions to trillions of years, then eventually expire. These breathtaking designs suggest the huge number and variety of stars we see at different stages of their lives.
Practical information
American Museum of Natural History
200 Central Park W, New York
NY 10024, United States
The Museum is open daily (Sunday through Saturday)
10:00 am to 5:30 pm and closed Thanksgiving and Christmas Day.
The American Museum of Natural History, founded in 1869 with a dual mission of scientific research and science education, is one of the world’s preeminent scientific, educational, and cultural institutions.
The Museum encompasses more than 40 permanent exhibition halls, galleries for temporary exhibitions, the Rose Center for Earth and Space including the Hayden Planetarium, and the Richard Gilder Center for Science, Education, and Innovation.
The Museum’s scientists draw on a world-class permanent collection of more than 30 million specimens and artifacts, some of which are billions of years old, and on one of the largest natural history libraries in the world.